EATING IN PARIS

"EVERYTHING IS A PRETEXT FOR A GOOD DINNER", - Playwright Jean Anouilh.

Eating out: Some of the most known cafes are along boulevard Montparnasse, and though slightly more expensive, its worth one visit to La Coupole, La Rotonde, or Le Dome to sit and sip where the greatest novelists of the 20^th century passed time. Also, the cafes around the cinemas in St. Germain des Pres, and St. Michel are very lively and interesting. (Paris is divided into arrondissements - precincts/districts - and locations are referred to the areas by their zip code: example 75006 is called the 6th arrondissement.)

Most restaurants have fixed price menus that are considerably less expensive than ordering a la carte, and dining out at lunch is usually cheaper than at dinner. Always look for a reasonably priced house wine, but check the cost - the house carafe or pichet is often the best deal, but it can be more expensive than some bottles on the regular wine list. Water, cafe, aperitifs, and digestifs can also add up, so check prices before ordering. In Cafes, soft drinks and bottled water can cost as much or more than a wine or whisky. For thirst quenchers, go to the grocery store.

To try:

Ice cream: on Ile St. Louis look for "Berthillon."

Bread: Boulangeries, Daniel Dupuy, 9^th arrondissement., 13 rue Cadet.  Au Petrin d’Antin, 18^th, 174 rue Ordener.

Charcuterie: Charcuterie Lyonnaise, 9^th, 58 rue des Martyrs.

Cheese: Androuet, 7^th, 83 rue St. Dominique, also 8^th at 6 rue Arsene-Houssaye. 
Fromagerie Boursault, 14^th, 71 av. du General Leclerc.

Chocolate: La Fontaine au Chocolat, 1^st, 101 rue St. Honore, and 201 rue St. Honore
La Duree, 8^th, 75 av Champs Elysees (try a "chocolat chaud" for example).

Escargots:  L’escargots de la Butte, 18^th, 48 rue Joseph de Maistre.

Foie Gras: Divay, 17^th, 4 rue Bayen.

Honey:  La Maison du Miel, 9^th, 24 rue Vignon.

Pastries:  Christian Constant, 6^th, 37 rue d’Assas, Lenotre, various shops throughout Paris.

Seafood:  Le Bar a Huitres, 14^th, 112 Blvd Montparnasse, plus 3 other locations.

Wine:  Nicolas, various shops throughout Paris.

Restaurants: There are simply too many to list, and too many good ones to choose just a few. A good book such as Gault Millau France provides a wonderful listing and rating of restaurants in Paris. Michelin also publishes an even more comprehensive guide which covers not only Paris, but the country: "Guide Michelin Rouge France". More than 1500 restaurants offering a meal for less than 85 francs, it also indicates about 350 nice restaurants at reasonable prices (100-130 francs). Of course, it offers much more, and is a great book to keep. The "Logis de France" independent hotel-restaurant chain has in its guide a list of "menu du terroir" locations, where exceptional values can be had with specialties of the region for that hotel.

France is the country of gastronomy, and this is one of the great pleasures of Paris and France, so don’t miss out! Be aware that fast food chains are making their presence in France now, and though they are good places to save money and eat well, they are not considered gastronomy.

Meal times vary from north to south, but generally they are later than in north america and the meals last considerably longer. For example, breakfast is generally between 7-9 am, while lunch can be from noon to 2:00 pm, and dinner from 8-10 pm. In the south, an apéritif is common before dinner. When you arrive you will be seated by the maitre and at the end of the meal you must ask for the bill (l’addition).

Café: primarily for hot and cold drinks, but also serve a continental breakfast, snacks like croque-monsieur, pizzas, omelets, quiche, and sandwiches. They sometimes have lunch specials.

Salon de The: tea rooms with pastries only. Open hours are limited. They are generally not found in small villages.

Bistro: Smaller, often family-run restaurant with paper tablecloths and simple decor. Food is generally a traditional and home style offering. Wine is often by carafe.

Brasserie: Literally translated it means brewery, and beer is often served. They are usually larger establishments, brightly lit, and open late. Alsatian specialties can be found here as well such as choucroute, sometimes seafood, and other full menu offerings.

Eating Cheap: Finally, for those who don't want to spend a lot of money, or who don’t want to spend too much time getting served, there are alternatives. The best is to buy products such as bread, fruits, cheese, pate, or other items at an open air market. The markets are different everywhere and have a specific day or two days in a week when they occur. Check local government offices for information on your arrondissement or village. If no market, then hit the grocery store. If its late, some little convenience style grocers are often open late in the big cities. Some excellent snacks can be found in the little stands along the streets as well. For example, crepes are an excellent way to eat cheap and have a nice snack. Sandwiches are commonly found as well, but don’t expect to find ketchup or mayonnaise with those sandwiches!

The best advice regarding the subject of restaurants and eating is to get one of the manuals suggested above and revel in the many choices.

To book a gourmet restaurant in advance; check out these links:

http://www.idealgourmet.fr/index.php?lg=_en

http://www.bestrestaurantsparis.com/

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